"Love and Peace" comes to Loreto Bay

Last week I wrote about a small impromptu get together on the Beach to celebrate a full moon rise, this week I will focus on a party at the other end of the spectrum – a party for hundreds of people with a catered meal, many costumes and two live bands providing the entertainment! 

The event was Agua Viva Management’s “Love & Peace” party, held to help launch the new Season and celebrate the fourth anniversary of the opening of their Property Management Company.  Dia, the Owner of the business, was employed by the original Developer of Loreto Bay doing liaison work with Homeowners, before launching her Property Management company located in Agua Viva, the second phase of Loreto Bay.

A lot of effort goes into preparing for a party of this size and no doubt Dia and some of her staff had been working on the plans for some time, but the first evidence of the set-up for the party began the afternoon before, when a section of the main street in front of their offices was blocked off and dozens of tables and hundreds of chairs were set up in front of a temporary stage.  Near the entrance on the north side of the party area there was a bar for mixed drinks and a beer tent, with food stations for the buffet arranged along one side of the cordoned off area, facing the stage.  In addition to the set up for the party, there were several booths outside the entrance for local vendors, and a big display Trailer for Baja Screens parked on the street at the far end of the party enclosure.      

Costumes had been encouraged for this event, and so I had put together an outfit that was vaguely reminiscent of my “hippie” period, many years ago!  But as I was donning beads and a headscarf I was wondering how many others attending would “dress” for the occasion – however, since my hair is longer now than it ever was in the 70’s, I was not going to miss taking advantage of a theme opportunity like this.  But as it turned out, I needn’t have been concerned – and perhaps I shouldn’t have been surprised, that the “Peace & Love” theme proved to be very resonant among the mainly Boomer demographic that is Loreto Bay!

So after being greeted by Dia and the team of Agua Viva employees at the entrance (all of whom were suitably costumed) I made my way into the party enclosure and saw that in fact most of the people at the party had made the effort to dress, or at least accessorize, for the occasion.  A local Mexican band was playing rock music in front of the stage and the crowd continued to increase steadily over the next hour or so, as more and more people arrived.  Soon, the buffet line began to form, starting at the food stations and extending the length of the party area before wrapping back on itself again, while about half of the crowd sat at tables or mingled and visited while they waited for the line to shorten.

                   There were beef, chicken and fish skewers grilling over hot coals and potatoes, pasta and veggies to go along with the entrees, Will and Cynthia had a table selling wines from their Wine Bar @ Nopolo by the glass or bottle, and Paulette from Ette’s Pies had a table of her delicious deserts for sale as well.  Progress in the line was slow, because Carlos, who has opened Agave, a new restaurant in Agua Viva, was the solo Grill Chef, but no one seemed to mind as they chatted together and listened to the music.      

After the opening band had completed their set, the members of Los Beach Dogs took over the stage and soon the “headline” act started to play their first gig of the new Season.  I have been following the “Dogs” since their earliest performances and so it may be difficult for me to be objective, but these guys have become a very professional group and give a polished performance.  Needless to say, here in Loreto Bay they are the local favorites and the crowd responded by filling the dance floor (or perhaps I should say, they were “dancing in the streets!”)

Later on in the evening, between sets, Dia and her Agua Viva Management staff took to the stage and Dia thanked the assembled crowd for attending and acknowledged the people who had contributed to making the event the success it was.  She talked about the past four years of her company’s history and introduced her staff.  Her presentation concluded with the announcement of her employee of the year, a mother with five children, who was very excited to receive the generous cash award.

And so the music and dancing went on into the night and the first big party of another Season was a great success – the first of what I know will be many celebrations to come, both large and small, organized, and spur of the moment.  While it’s my privilege (and self imposed responsibility) to report on these goings on here in Loreto Bay, it is satisfying to see the positive momentum and community spirit carry over from the end of one season into the beginning of the next with even rising enthusiasm.

It is also significant that while the majority of people at this party were from Loreto Bay, a good percentage were from town – both ex-pat and Mexican.  I think this is important for at least two reasons; greater integration of our growing community with the town’s people is a good thing that leads to better understanding, and, I know from talking to some of the “townies”, it had been a while since some of them had last visited Loreto Bay and they told me how very impressed they were with the improved appearance of the Development, due to all the new landscaping since their last visit.

Connecting with an earlier time that many of us shared when we were younger and idealistic, when “Love & Peace” meant more than just the words – bridging from that time to today, and finding a new meaning for those words, as it applies to the homes and community we are building here in the Baja, this is another new meaning to “Living Loreto”.

Good Moon Rising

Although more Homeowners are arriving every day, there is still only a small fraction of the numbers who will be here within the next month or so, when more of the Seasonal residents have arrived, along with shorter term Visitors.  But that fact did not deter a couple of dozen people to gather last weekend on the Beach for an impromptu party to watch the full moon rise.  The informal get-together was organized by Jeff, a Loreto Bay resident who is the Director of Las Villas de Mexico, the Homex Development adjacent to Loreto Bay.

In addition to the Loreto Bay residents who were there, there were also several Homex staff members and a number of residents from the Nopolo community that surrounds Loreto Bay – it was a good mixture of people from the “neighborhood” some of whom live here year-round, along with some of us early returning (snow) birds. 

I have written before about the beautiful Ocean views we get here along the crescent beach that Loreto Bay gives its name to, but after living here for a number of years I have come to appreciate how important the off-shore islands to the east are in appreciating that view.  There are two islands that can be seen from our shore, the smaller Coronado in the distance to the north, and the much larger Carmen, whose north end is more or less directly across from us and it extends south almost to the far horizon.  It is from behind Carmen that the sun rises most of the year, moving from the island’s far south end at the equinox, gradually north until it is almost rising due east in the summer, before reversing its path to the south again.

The significance of having this massive island forming most of our horizon to the east, is that it gives a sense of scale to the ocean view, without which there would only be a “blue line” where the sea meet the sky with no perspective.  However, with Carmen defining that perspective, we can enjoy the sunrises breaking over the jagged mountain tops of the far island (quite the nicest time of day to enjoy a solitary walk on the Beach) watching the light changes from minute to minute and feeling the warmth of the new sun every morning as it rises into another (usually) perfectly clear blue Loreto sky.

Similarly, Carmen also provides a suitable stage for the moonrise, particularly on the night of a full moon, when the moonlight can seem bright enough to read a newspaper by – if there was a newspaper here to read!  I was reminded of this, when I headed out of my house for the five minute walk to where a bonfire marked the party’s location on the Beach.  I had loaded up with camera equipment, and a few beers to comply with the BYOB invitation, and was about halfway there when I realized that I had forgotten the flashlight I had planned to bring with me, but seeing the party was in full swing by that time, I decided not to go back for it, and to take my chances getting home again later.      

Later, of course, with the moon high in the sky, it was almost as bright walking home as it had been when I headed out at dusk – I had forgotten the effect of full moonlight in our “dark sky” community, where we have done our best to reduce the amount of light pollution in the development with low wattage downcast outdoor fixtures.  Our southern proximity to the Tropic of Cancer and the crystal clear ocean air, of course contribute to the impact of moonlight, but “moon shadows” still take some getting used to when I first return here after spending some time away.

In addition to the bonfire, that was making good use of some of the driftwood that has accumulated on the Beach following the several Fall storms (which flush a lot of vegetation out of the arroyos, much of which winds up washing back onto the shore) there was a table of snacks contributed by Carlos who runs a new restaurant here called Agave, as well as some wine provided by The Wine Bar @ Nopolo.  There were a few other tables and chairs set up, but most of the people stood around and visited - visited that is, when they were not being entertained by some new Loreto Bay talent! 

Bill and his wife Laurie have been working in and around Loreto Bay for many years, first as a Construction Manager, when there was more new construction being done here, and more recently they have branched out as a Construction Contractor and Property Manager in Loreto Bay.  But until this party, Bill’s talent singing and playing guitar had been known only to a few friends and other musicians – this was his first “public” performance, and he was joined by return Visitors Peter on guitar and vocals and Peter’s wife Tina, who sang some accompanying vocals.  Surprisingly, this musical team came together just a day or so before the party, when Bill and Peter spent just a few hours of rehearsal before their “debut” that evening, although I understand that Peter is an accomplished musician in his own right, with several CDs to his credit

                  Considering the celestial theme of the evening, Bill’s version of Neal Young’s “Harvest Moon” was both appropriate and a highlight of the evening’s entertainment, as were a couple of a cappella songs by Madeline and Megan, the young daughters of Jeff, the organizer of the party.  There was also a short set by Francisco, a Nopolo resident who does more traditional Mexican style folk music. 

But the overall mood of the evening, for many of the people there, seemed to be one of reconnection and quiet celebration; for those of us recently returned – being back again in the place we love, and for the others who spend the summers here – seeing the beginning of another “social” season, as the community comes together again and there are more people around to enjoy good times, like celebrating a full moon together.

When a rising moon is a sufficient incentive for a Community to get together, and then turns into an opportunity to re-connect with friends and neighbors and to share musical talent – then I know that I am home again and “Living Loreto!            

Welcome back! . . . Season Six begins!

Welcome back to the sixth season of Living Loreto!  Actually I have been back in Loreto for several weeks by now, busy with moving back into my home here after a summer of travelling in my Trailer around North America. 

It was very good to get back home again, I arrived back a couple of weeks after a Tropical storm dumped inches of rain in the mountains west of here – which is a recipe for flooding, washed out roads and a big mess!  Fortunately, by the time I was travelling down, the highway had been patched in the few places there had been damage so I had no problems getting here.  But there had been some significant damage, mainly in town, with localized flooding where the arroyo was breached.

As I have mentioned before, these arroyos are dry channels where runoff from the mountains is channeled when it rains, to find its way to the Ocean.  With a vast mountain range west of us, and a limited number of arroyos to carry all the water collected over 100’s of square miles of rocky ground, during a downpour, the arroyos can be transformed from dry riverbeds into cascading torrents with frightening speed .

What takes a little getting used to, however, is what matters is not how much rain we get HERE – but how much falls in the mountains to the west, where most of the water is collected.  This becomes more significant when you consider that most of the storms at this time of year come from the Pacific side of the peninsula to the west, and so the further west you go the more rain there can be – much of which flows east to the Ocean.

Arriving as I did, a few weeks after that storm, the most noticeable effect was the lush green grasses and leafy bushes along the side of the road as I approached Loreto from the north.  In places there was even standing water in low spots beside the road, strange to see given the normal desert-like conditions most of the year.  Now the Sierra de la Gigante mountain range to the west, is clothed in fresh greenery with the normally bare shrubs covered in new green leaves that only sprout when there is enough water. The sides of the road are thick with two foot high grasses, where most of the year there is only the thin dry straw that is left after stray cattle have grazed it.

Next to the greenery, the most significant thing I noticed on my arrival here in September was the heat!  Over 100 degrees and humid was typical for the first week or two, and some air conditioning was necessary in the evening, while during the day the slightest exertion was enough to soak even the lightest clothing.  But as in past years, within a couple of weeks the temperature had dropped along with the humidity and the A/C was no longer needed, ceiling fans and open doors and windows were enough to keep it comfortable inside.

There have been other changes here in Loreto Bay over the summer.  Last Season I wrote about the infrastructure completion project, a large part of which involved landscaping both sides of the main road through the development.  Now the center median has been “zeroscaped” using indigenous plants, shrubs and grasses that require minimal irrigation, set off with accent rocks and several colors and textures of gravel.  Now with this final element almost completed, the main artery of the community is looking better than it ever has, and it makes a much more positive first impression as one drives through the development.

Another significant project has been completed – the new Community Lap Pool, surrounded with patios and high-end outdoor furniture, is located about mid-way between the original Pool at the south end of the Founders Neighborhood and the one completed in second phase Agua Viva last year.  With the addition of these two new pools, everyone in the community is now within a relatively close distance to a refreshing gathering place that will become the hub for much enjoyment, as more and more people spend more time here.

I was also struck by how few Homeowners were here when I first arrived, there are of course year-round residents, many involved in businesses here and the operations required for maintaining a community of over 600 homes.  But there are a small number of Homeowners who choose to spend the long hot summer here, although many of them who do seem to enjoy the quiet solitude that comes from having the place almost to themselves.

Among the other changes this Season, Loreto Bay Homes has opened a new, much larger, Real Estate Office, a few doors south of our Property Management Office, where the convenience store used to be.  This new expanded office means there will be more than one Agent available in the Office during business hours so we won’t have to close when out showing homes.  Our larger presence is in anticipation of an increased volume of visitors this season, when the new daily airline service begins in November. 

In town there have been a number of changes this summer, probably one of the most significant is the opening of a new supermarket, the Ley Super Express, bringing a wider selection of products including an in-house bakery and Deli counter with prepared foods to go like rotisserie roasted chickens.  While I have enjoyed shopping there several times since I arrived back, my one complaint arises from the store’s popularity – any time I have been there the small parking lot is full and it can take some time before a space opens up.

The arrival of a new chain store competitor has raised the bar for some of the other stores in town with noticeable improvements in El Pescador and smaller changes at Mercado Juarez, but the grocery business in Loreto has certainly changed for the better, particularly when I remember the way things used to be a few years ago!  (Long time readers may remember one of my early postings where I described the shopping exercise as “Hunting and Gathering” http://livingloreto.blogspot.mx/2009/02/hunting-and-gathering.html)

But probably the biggest change since I left for the summer is the fact that work has finally begun on twinning the highway between Loreto Bay and town.  A number of pieces of heavy earth-moving equipment are working on both sides of the existing highway, starting just south of town preparing the ground for new roadbeds.  I haven’t heard a projected completion date, but it will clearly take some considerable time to build the 15 km. of new roads, which I understand will eventually continue another 10 km south of Loreto Bay through to Puerto Escondido.

So as more Homeowners arrive daily and our community comes back to life, I am looking forward to the best season ever here in Loreto Bay.  I begin my sixth season of writing this Blog conscious of the commitment to post on a regular basis and the demand of coming up with weekly topics, but also excited by the expectation of new developments and progress in the community. I feel a real sense of optimism and confidence that, as we approach the tenth anniversary of the first sales event in November 2003 (when I purchased my home from a chalk outline on a sandy beach) Loreto Bay is now fulfilling the vision and dreams that so many people have shared.

Watching a dream become a reality, going from “chalk on sand” to a thriving community of over 600 homes with great expectations about what lies ahead for those of us lucky to call this place Home – that is what “Living Loreto” is all about!         

Loreto Bay Retrospective 2012 - 2013

By definition, the subject of this Blog is about my life here in Loreto (hence the name) and so the time has come to finish this season’s series of posts, as I prepare to leave my home here in the Baja and embark on my summer schedule of travel in my “home away from home”, my Travel Trailer which has been stored for the winter just north of the US border.

Looking back over the past 8 months, in many ways this has been the best winter I have spent here in Loreto since I first purchased the “chalk on sand” which was to become my home here almost 10 years ago.  During that time I have watched the completion of over 600 homes, in spite of the precarious Real Estate market throughout North America, from which the original Developer of Loreto Bay was an early casualty.  What followed were several dark years of uncertainty when the future of our development very much hung in the balance. 
 

One of the early positive steps was the decision by about 120 Homeowners with unfinished homes in the second phase of the project to proceed with completing their homes independently, at a higher cost than had been originally quoted by the now defunct Developer.  This added about twenty percent to the then current total of finished homes and was a big vote of confidence in the future of the community.  The next significant event was the arrival of Homex, a large Mexican residential construction company that purchased most of the remaining assets of the original Developer and the ensuing announcement of their plans to build a new project, projected to be 800 homes adjacent to Loreto Bay.

Then a little over two years ago the members of our Home Owners Association voted almost unanimously in favor of an infrastructure completion program, a two year project to finish important aspects of the development that had been left incomplete since the departure of the original Developer.  This was a huge vote of confidence by the community in the completion of the vision that we had bought into in the first place.  It includes some important maintenance and upgrades to essential services as well as adding two Community Pools to the original one, completing flagstone paving along half of the Paseo and adding street lighting along with even more extensive landscaping of common areas.

This entire two year completion program, which is due to be finished by the end of this year, is on schedule and under the $2 million dollar budget, which has been collected through a special assessment to our monthly HOA fees, and represents a tangible investment by the Homeowners in the future of their Community.  But in addition to the “bricks and mortar” that this project represents, in my mind it will be viewed in the future as an even more important step forward in the history of Loreto Bay – the point that we as Homeowners fully realized that we were responsible for ourselves and the community where we had purchased homes, and we were no longer dependent on a “Developer Daddy” to take care of us!

As those of you who have been following these posts over the past winter know, this Season has had other highlights – many of which I have written about here – from the lavish Food and Wine Festival to impromptu get-togethers for a pot-luck dinner.  Since, in the day, Loreto Bay was originally marketed mainly to pre-retirement Baby Boomers, many of those Homeowners still have not retired yet, although every season there are more people spending more time here as they finally reach their “golden years” and are able to join their friends and neighbors here for more than a few stolen weeks out of a busy working year.

As more Homeowners reach retirement and can spend months here instead of weeks, the Community grows and becomes more vibrant and diverse as the mosaic of their interests and passions are added to those who are already here to make this an increasingly colorful and dynamic place.  With the promised increase in airline access to Loreto starting in November, we anticipate that it will become easier to book more convenient flights here next winter, than it has been in over four years.  The significance of this improved access is that in recent years most of the available seats have been booked far in advance by residents in Loreto Bay and the surrounding area, leaving few seats available for Visitors to come to Loreto for the first time, if they did not plan sufficiently far ahead.

With increased tourism will come a much needed improvement in business for the Hotels, Restaurants and other services in the town of Loreto and that will have a major impact on employment and prosperity in and around Loreto.  Incidentally, it also follows that this anticipated increase of Visitors to Loreto will also have a “trickle down” affect on the Real Estate business in Loreto generally and Loreto Bay specifically, as an increasing number of people will be introduced to the special nature of this beautiful place and choose to make it where they will find their retirement home.

As I write this, another important step in the progress of Loreto Bay is about to begin.  Work should restart this summer on the completion of the two Posada buildings that have been sitting unfinished near the center of the Community for over 4 years.  With two main floors of commercial space and a total of 44 condo apartments, most of which were sold prior to the start of construction, the eventual completion of these two four storey buildings will be another landmark in the evolution of Loreto Bay and transform what has been an eyesore for years into a focal point, while adding another 10% to the number of homes in the Founders Neighborhood.

So as I wind down the best Season so far, here in Loreto Bay, and look forward with cautious optimism to next season and an increasingly thriving community within a resurging town, I am reminded of a somewhat dark comment I have used here in recent years; “the difference between pioneers and settlers is the arrows sticking in their backs”!  Having lived here since the early days of the development, and having been involved in the Real Estate market for most of those years, I have seen an amazing transition from the early “heady” days when the vision began, through the uncertainty about the future, to the slow but steady progress back from the brink, and now the air of optimism and growing enthusiasm about what lies ahead!

Taking a moment at the end of another Season to reflect on where we have come from and appreciate where we are heading – that is certainly one of the most important parts of “Living Loreto”!

P.S. In conclusion for this season, I would like to express my sincere thanks for the continued and growing support by you, the Readers of this Blog.  Since the modest beginnings near the end of 2008, my Blog has reached a loyal following that literally reaches around the world, and this season has been the most successful so far, based on the number of hits each week. 

While I sometimes feel the burden of obligation to come up with another topic for my weekly posting, once I actually begin the writing process, this has become one of my favorite pastimes over the past five years and I have you to thank for helping me learn what writing skills I have developed over that time.  Sometime this summer Living Loreto will pass the 100,000 hit level (yes, people continue to read these pages even when I am not posting new material) and while I am looking forward to a hiatus from writing over the summer, I pledge to resume these jottings again in the Fall when I return again to “Living Loreto”!            

A Farewell to Dali . . .

The subject of this week’s Blog is the departure of a popular and important aspect of our lifestyle here in Loreto – recently Jose Luis and Beatriz, the proprietors of Dali Delikatessan, announced that they would be closing their food store this month after eight years of providing specialty meats and other hard to find ingredients to the community.  During that time their store has grown from modest beginnings to become a “staple” for many of the ex-pats that have come to rely on them for the makings of many delicious meals that have added much to the enjoyment of our lifestyle here.

This past week I met with both of them at the Wine Bar here in Loreto Bay to talk about their experiences running the business, how they came to Loreto and what their plans are for the future.  Although it was obviously a sad occasion for me, as I have been a regular and enthusiastic customer of theirs over the years, it was also an opportunity to spend some time getting to know them better than the brief visits we often had when I dropped into their store to pick up the special things like Angus beef steaks and New Zealand lamb or cheddar cheese and my favorite coffee beans.

I remember meeting them soon after they opened their first small location downtown, not much more than the proverbial “hole in the wall”, located near the town square in Loreto.  In those days they had just begun the transition from a wholesale restaurant supplier of mainly frozen meats, and they were starting to sell retail to individuals.  In those days the store had a couple of shelving units stocked mainly with large commercial sized containers of condiments and other ingredients and in the back they had a large walk-in cooler/freezer where they stored their inventory of meats.

In those early days I remember the sense of excitement going to the original store and discovering the recent additions to their stock, an experience that would be hard to understand for anyone not familiar with the then current state of the other food stores in Loreto – which were limited at best and unappetizing at worst.  I had to quickly relearn the art of grocery shopping Loreto style, and came to refer to it as “hunting and gathering” as opposed to the selection and plenty that I was used to in the supermarkets where I had come from.

While one often headed to town with a shopping list of sorts, it was only an optimistic starting point, because unlike buying groceries in typical North American supermarkets, you wound up purchasing what you could find – not necessarily what you had started out looking for.  And while from the beginning Dali was far more reliable for their basic meats and other ingredients week in and week out, the excitement came from finding a new item that they were carrying which often opened new options for meals that had been unobtainable here before.

Those early days six or seven years ago also marked the beginning of another major contributor to the improvement of home prepared food here, the Sunday Market where vendors, many from out of town, set up stalls near the arroyo and sold their wares, including five or six that brought in fresh fruits and vegetables - a welcome improvement to the limited selection and poor quality that was then common in the established local stores.  But it was the reliable supply of excellent quality meats that quickly established Dali as an important source of the main meal ingredients for many of the growing numbers of ex-pats who were living, or passing through Loreto.

Although upwards of 70% of their business came from this loyal clientele, the remainder of the local Mexican customers were critically important to a viable year-round business because it was this smaller group of permanent residents that kept the business in operation when the majority of their winter season customers left for six or more months during the long hot summers.  Although Beatriz and Jose Luis expressed few regrets about their eight years of business in Loreto, I think they were disappointed that they did not get more support from a larger local Mexican clientele.  But they were resigned to the cultural reality that for the same reasons they were so popular with their ex-pat customers looking for a “taste of home”, the large majority of local residents were not familiar with many of the cuts of meat and other products they sold, coupled with the misperception that the foods they sold were more expensive.

Over the years Dali developed another strong following in a niche market, which will play an important role in the future evolution of their business, although that future unfortunately will not be here in Loreto.  When the yachting community discovered Dali and their vacuum packed, flash frozen meats they became enthusiastic customers and word travelled fast among the many live aboard cruisers that frequent the spectacular sailing grounds of the Sea of Cortez.  A layover in Loreto, or nearby Puerto Escondido, almost always meant a provisioning run to Dali, where the yachters would stock up, sometimes in very large quantities, on their quality meats and other hard to find ingredients like sushi rice and bulk herbs and spices. 

Beatriz gave an example of one such customer who, upon finding some hard to come by ingredient placed a phone call, while she was in the store, to a friend of hers who was located in Mexico City and apparently had been searching for the same thing – without success – in that city of 20 million people, and here it was in Loreto!  With that sort of spectacular example, it should not be hard to understand why Dali is going to be re-locating to La Paz, with a much larger sailing community as well as a population over ten times the size of Loreto.

They plan to open a new store, probably within walking distance of at least one of the two main marinas located there and build their business on a more sustainable basis catering to the much larger numbers of potential customers, albeit in a much more competitive market than here in Loreto.  While they have come slowly to this decision, and with real regrets for the many friends and customers they will leave behind, they also will miss the quiet beauty that they have come to love as their home in Loreto over the past eight years. 

But, the numbers don’t lie, and while their business has remained steady over the years that they have been operating in their much expanded second store, they are realistic enough to understand that a business that is not growing is in fact shrinking.  And so they have made the hard decision that they must make their move now, from relative strength, and not wait another year, or two (or more) for Loreto to grow and eventually allow them to continue to grow with it.

In writing this Blog over the past five seasons, I have always strived to put a positive perspective on the stories that I share with the readers every week, as my Mother used to say: “If you can’t say something nice, don’t say anything at all”!  So it is difficult for me to find a positive take-away from this week’s post on the departure of a much loved local business and the wonderful couple who I have seen grow and mature with the successful enterprise they have built over the same period of time that I have lived my adventure here.  But I am sure that there are new entrepreneurs waiting in the wings, who see the opportunity that Loreto promises in the future, and I wouldn’t be surprised if Jose Luis and Beatriz have provided those others with a stellar example of how to begin and succeed with a new enterprise here.

Learning to say Via con Dios to friends who learned how to run a successful business, while I was learning how to live successfully in a new and very different home here in Mexico – that may be one of the most important lessons of “Living Loreto”.                            

Loreto Food - A Guest Blog Perspective

As this season winds down and I begin to get ready to leave Loreto soon for the summer months I am pleased to be able to offer you, my dedicated readers, an infrequent alternative view of “Living Loreto”, this time from the perspective of another follower of my Blog who recently contacted me and offered to write a Guest Blog.

Eddie Shackleford is an Editor and Travel Writer who has visited Loreto and he brings us his enthusiastic commentary on the food experiences he had here.  I thought it would be interesting to add a different point of view on a topic that I haven’t written about (restaurant food in Loreto) for a couple of years. When I received Eddie’s draft of this Blog my first impression was that maybe he was a bit “over the top” in his enthusiasm – but then I decided perhaps I have become a bit jaded myself, and who was I to judge another person’s positive reaction.  Particularly when it is well written and coming from an experienced travel writer, so I hope you enjoy Eddie’s perspective as much as I appreciate a rare hiatus from my weekly postings.

 

Unique and Timeless Loreto

The picturesque Mexican city of Loreto has become an out-of-towner favorite because of its authentic historical charm and readily available modern amenities. Tourists visit for the year-round sun and the call of the sea, and keep coming back for the friendly and familiar atmosphere along with the delicious local cuisine.

Loreto has held a level of importance in Baja California for centuries. It was the first Spanish settlement in the Baja, and it remains a favorite of travelers because Loreto has managed to preserve the romantically historic buildings and streets while adding the modern touches and worldly flair that make for great vacations.

Some time ago, the government began to bill Loreto as the newest Mexican resort town. They invested heavily in local development, wooing in visitors with a new airport and golf course. Luckily for travelers, it has never become the overcrowded cookie-cutter resort mecca that it could have been. Instead, it is a town that has the perfect balance between an ancient fishing village and a modern vacation destination. The ease of travel provided by the local airport makes Loreto an attraction to those buying second homes as well as those who may be just visiting. It only takes a few hours to get to Loreto from Los Angeles by air, so many find Loreto the perfect place to simply step off the plane into paradise.

The local tourism interests have taken great care to keep an eye to conservation, which means tourists will hopefully have access to a preserved abundance of beautiful landscape for generations to come. One of the biggest draws of the area is the marine conservation area in the beautiful bay where travelers can snorkel and dive to see an amazing bounty of aquatic life in unsullied waters.

The sparkling Sea of Cortez off the shores of Loreto also provides visitors the experience of swimming with dolphins or enjoying world-class whale watching. The most popular ocean activity for visitors by far however is deep sea fishing. Many adventure companies provide both gear and guided fishing trips. The best part of ocean fishing in Loreto is that many of the locally famous and delicious restaurants will prepare your fish in their kitchen right before your eyes.

Character of Loreto's Local Food Scene

There are really no rules when it comes to the Loreto food scene. Many in the local restaurant business that have made their permanent homes in Loreto hail from diverse international locales so the flair of the food is different in each restaurant. The owners range from those raised on the food in local Loreto kitchens to those with professional culinary training from Mexico City, San Diego or Europe.

The only thing you will find in every restaurant in Loreto is that there are no boundaries. There is no barrier between the kitchen and the table since the chef will likely be the one talking to you about your food and crafting delicious meals to your exact taste. There are also no barriers between land and sea since you may even be able to see the clams you are about to eat be delivered by the person who dug them up that day. In some cases, the restaurant you visit is also your destination for the day. La Picazon is a locally famous restaurant 10 km north of town that is located on the beach and patrons can collect shells or take a quick jaunt on a kayak between courses.

Fresh and unique food made with love and attention is not just talk in Loreto. Everything is fresh.  Each pastry, tortilla, or loaf of bread was made that morning. In Loreto the “catch of the day” means exactly that, the fish served on your plate probably was caught that morning!

 

It’s not hard to find locally sourced food prepared in traditional Baja style. What’s most

surprising about Loreto is the quality and diversity of foreign food options. The pulled pork, waffles and sushi are just as expertly prepared with fresh quality ingredients as the Mexican cuisine. Many restaurants import delicious additions to the local fare such as craft beer and Argentinean beef.

There is never any hurry in Loreto eating establishments. Many offer the luxury of casual elegance, while others have the heart and soul that can only be found in a “hole-in-the-wall”. What they share in common is that they are places to gather and savor the great food and company of this city that time forgot. As you probably gather, one of my favorite experiences while I was in Loreto was eating the food!

Unique Foods of Loreto

On a drive through Baja California you can expect to find any number of restaurants serving fish

tacos and the like, and more than likely each one will have fish that is more delicious than the last.  Of course Loreto has fish tacos, and they will not disappoint you. But what Loreto does best is the fusion of all styles of North American and Mediterranean cuisine. You may expect to eat the best Mexican food you’ve ever had - and you will, but you may also find the best hamburger or vegetable lasagna here as well.

 

Huarache is a favorite of both visitors and locals. The fried masa (corn) base is covered with any number of toppings including salsa, cilantro, potatoes and meat finished off with queso fresco or fresh cheese. Other popular Mexican dishes in Loreto for visitors to sample include fried stuffed potatoes called papas rellenos and seasoned skirt steak called arracherra.

Any pescado or fish menu item will be sure to please, especially the mahi-mahi that locals call dorado. It is quite the unique Loreto experience to come back from a fishing trip and be able to ask a restaurant to cook your catch. Many restaurants will cook up the fish you bring them in several diverse, unique and delicious styles.

Breakfast

A few restaurants in Loreto only serve breakfast and lunch, and any of those would be a traveler’s best bet for a scrumptious morning feast. Visitors will be delighted to find international favorites like French toast or waffles or a classic egg and sausage spread.

A few local favorites can be found on breakfast menus, like traditional Mexican huevos rancheros or

even a surprisingly delicious cactus smoothie. What makes a Loreto morning meal special however is the abundance of fresh quality ingredients and the care taken in the preparation of each plate. Juice was squeezed fresh this morning and comes in a staggering assortment of sweet fruity flavors. The bread for your French toast probably came out of the oven only a few hours ago. Your coffee and fresh pastries may just be the best you’ve ever had.

Lunch

Lunch is also an adventure. Those hungry for their midday meal may delight in the abundance of fresh and surprisingly delicious sandwiches and salads available at cafes and delis. A driving tour may bring travelers to pubs or saloons off the beaten path, where they can enjoy an ice cold beer with a hamburger or BLT worth writing home about.

Dinner

A stroll around the town´s central square reveals a plethora of heavenly dinner options. Whatever type of food you are craving, whether it is Italian, Mexican or American, will be prepared beautifully and will be served with signature local hospitality. Many families cap off each sun-soaked day of their visit with a refreshing ice cream cone from the best ice cream parlor in town which can be found within a block of the square.

Drinks

The flavor of international fusion does not stop at Loreto’s food. Taverns and pubs carry imported wine and craft brews paired as well as local favorites. It is not difficult to find a spot to watch the beautiful waters of the Sea of Cortez with your favorite drink in hand. The food served at Loreto’s pubs is not just an afterthought. Much of the best food in the city is served either as entrees or tapas-style small plates with items like world-class sashimi to accompany your libation.

Summary

Many resort towns present only what foreigners want to see while neglecting to preserve their heritage in a misguided attempt to please their Visitors. Loreto is not like that. In every aspect, it welcomes and blends new cultures with its own while preserving its ancient history and charming atmosphere. The food in Loreto has blended the traditional cuisines of locals and visitors together to become something novel, fresh and truly unique.

 Bio: Eddie Duncan Shackleford is a Senior Editor for Direct2TV and loves to research and          write topics on tourism and travel. To gain a unique experience, Eddie travels to different places so that he can write interesting content about them. Eddie D. Shackleford can be followed on twitter at: @Eddie20Ford

 

Seeing a familiar place through a Visitors eyes, brings new insights and appreciations that even the most enthusiastic Resident can become “jaded” with over time.  Enjoying that fresh perspective from another point of view is a relatively new experience for those of us who are “Living Loreto”.